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有了這篇攻略，就可以暢游這座非洲大都市了

Adam Erace 2018-07-28

中國游客對于開普敦可能還不太熟悉，本文帶你走進這個充滿活力的非洲大都市。

開普敦擁有頂級紅酒、絕美沙灘、厚重的歷史，在參觀這個充滿活力的非洲大都市時，如何能盡覽這一切？我們來到了坐落在非洲大陸最大的現代藝術博物館上面的Silo酒店，聽禮賓部的胡恩·金為你制定開普敦旅游攻略。

新興街區：伍德斯托克曾經是工廠密集的工業區，但現在街頭可以看到很多室內設計、藝術設計、精釀啤酒以及像SMAC和Whatiftheworld一類的現代畫廊。在伍德斯托克復興的起源地Old Biscuit Mill，有一個著名的周六市場。我們把這稱為開普敦的布魯克林。

FIRST-CLASS WINES, beautiful beaches, powerful history—how do you take it all in when visiting one of Africa’s most vibrant and cosmopolitan cities? At the Silo, a new hotel perched atop the continent’s largest modern-art museum, concierge Hoon Kim has a plan for your Cape Town trip.

Emerging neighborhood: Woodstock used to be quite industrial, with lots of factories, but it has become an area filled with interior designers, graphic artists, artisanal breweries, and contemporary galleries like SMAC and Whatiftheworld. There’s a famous Saturday market at the Old Biscuit Mill, which started Woodstock’s renaissance a few years back. We call it the Brooklyn of Cape Town.

伍德斯托克的每周市場。Per-Anders Pettersson—Corbis/Getty Images

最佳新餐廳：在非?？岬腏anse & Co.，主廚阿諾·揚瑟·范倫斯堡只烹制當地食物。餐廳食物頗具實驗性和創意，我最近吃過芝士杏仁烤韭蔥，十分美味，但這卻并非主打精致餐飲。餐廳布局簡單，暗色的墻面，餐桌上擺著燭臺。餐廳的小院棒極了，有時我只是過去喝一杯不錯的冰酒。

Best new restaurant: At the very cool Janse & Co., chef Arno Janse van Rensburg is all about local produce. The food is experimental and creative—I recently had a sensational grilled leek dish with cream cheese and almonds—but it’s not fine dining. The restaurant is very simple, with dark walls and candles on the tables. There’s a wonderful courtyard, too; sometimes I go there just for a nice glass of chilled wine.

Janse & Co.'s的主廚阿諾·揚瑟·范倫斯堡只提供當地食物。Courtesy of Jessamy Hindle

逃離城市：法蘭舒克（Franschhoek）在南非荷蘭語里的意思是“法國角”，離開普敦一小時的距離，以南非美食之都出名。這是胡諾格派教徒于1600年首次定居的地方，擁有全國最好的餐廳和酒莊。在這個古色古香的小鎮里，每一個元素都充滿法式風情，在南非中部能看到這樣的景致著實奇怪又讓人著迷。Haute Cabrière是其中一家家庭經營的精品酒莊。

Urban escape: Franschhoek—Afrikaans for “French corner”—is about an hour from Cape Town and is known as the culinary capital of South Africa. It’s where the Huguenots first settled around 1600 and today is home to some of the country’s best restaurants and wine estates. Everything in this quaint town has a French feel, which is really weird and wonderful in the middle of South Africa. Haute Cabrière is a family owned boutique wine estate here.

位于南非美酒之鄉法蘭舒克的Haute Cabriere葡萄園的餐廳露臺。Blaine Harrington III—Getty Images

海灘游憩：因為南極冰山融化，環繞開普敦的南大西洋夏天甚至涼過冬天。這兒的大部分人都更鐘愛日光浴而非游泳，沖浪當然也備受歡迎?？财账篂澈涂死蝾D海灘都是熱門沖浪點，但我更偏愛南部海岸的梅森堡海灘，這里沙灘細軟，水溫宜人。

當地人的秘密：Reverie Social Table是當地人引以為豪的一家從農場到餐桌式的餐廳，坐落在十分有特色的天文臺地區。主廚朱莉婭·哈廷年輕有事業心，我從未見過有人比她對當地產品和酒更有熱情。她依據輪換的酒單設計了一份五道菜的菜單。餐廳只有一條長桌，最多能容納大概12個人，所以你得和陌生人一起就餐。

Beach break: Because of melting icebergs from the South Pole, the South Atlantic Ocean surrounding Cape Town is actually colder in the summer than in the winter. Most people here prefer suntanning to swimming, but surfing is definitely very popular. Camps Bay and Clifton Beach are famous surf beaches, but I like Muizenberg Beach on the southern coast for its sand and milder water temperatures.

Locals’ secret: Reverie Social Table is a proudly South African farm-to-table eatery located in the quirky Observatory neighborhood. The chef, Julia Hattingh, is young and ambitious; I’ve never seen anyone as passionate about local produce and wine. She creates the five-course menu around a rotating wine selection. It’s served at a long table that accommodates maybe 12 people max, so you have to like sitting with strangers.

在Reverie Social Table餐廳，客人需共享一張餐桌，因而打造了終極就餐體驗。Courtesy of Adrian Beck

必購清單：南非因皮制品出名，尤其是鴕鳥皮。Cape Cobra手工皮具是一家精品店，店主謝弗家族手工制作店內的每一件商品，無論是皮帶還是卡包，或是精美的手提包，用的都是高品質的當地皮料。

Must-have souvenir: South Africa is famous for leather goods, especially ones made from ostrich. Cape Cobra Leathercraft is a boutique whose owners, the Schafer family, make everything by hand, from belts to credit card holders to fabulous handbags, using very high-quality local leather.

家庭精品店Cape Cobra手工皮具店出售當地的手工皮制品。Courtesy of Cape Cobra Leathercraft

雷區：羅賓島。雖然納爾遜·曼德拉曾被囚此地，但游覽羅賓島由政府管理，并非最佳選擇。想要了解種族隔離時期的慘痛歷史，可以去參觀第六區博物館。

10000美金一日游

我們請金給我們定制一個特別的開普敦一日游：這一天從乘坐直升機游覽開普半島的壯麗風光開始，一覽水濱、桌山、好望角的驚艷景致?？腿嘶爻呛?，邁巴赫會載著他們前往酒鄉中心的Chef’s Warehouse Beau Constantia享用西班牙風味午餐。飯后返回開普敦，登上the Only One號游艇出海，在夕陽下開啟奢華旅程，在享受南非香檳和精致點心的同時，可以下海游個泳，游艇還會帶他們前往桌灣兜兜風。最后，在Silo酒店屋頂的繁星下做一個全身按摩，放松身心，結束這一天的旅程。（財富中文網）

Things to avoid: Tours of Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned, are government regulated and not the best run. To learn about the painful memories of the apartheid era, try the District Six Museum instead.

The $10,000 Day

We asked Kim to plan us a special, singular day in Cape Town: The day would begin with a dramatic, scenic helicopter trip over the Cape Peninsula, affording jaw-dropping views of the waterfront, Table Mountain, and the Cape of Good Hope. Upon the guests’ return to the city, we’d whisk them off in a Maybach limousine for a tapas lunch at Chef’s Warehouse Beau Constantia in the heart of wine country. After lunch, guests would return to Cape Town for a luxurious sunset yacht excursion aboard the Only One, where, in between sips of South African bubbly and bites of gourmet canapés, they could go for a swim before zipping out for a spin around Table Bay. And to conclude the day: a relaxing full-body massage under the stars on the rooftop of the Silo hotel.