越抵制越熱賣：去年伊萬卡服裝品牌業績搶眼

在2016財年（截至2017年1月31日），伊萬卡·特朗普服裝品牌的批發收入較上年上漲61%，達到4730萬美元。以上數據來自G-III服裝集團近日發布的年報。G-III是美國最大的成衣生產和進口商，它不僅給這位“第一女兒兼總統顧問”的服裝品牌代工，也給Calvin Klein、Dockers、DKNY、Vince Camuto和Tommy Hilfiger等不少美國本土服裝品牌提供代工服務。G-III在年報中將伊萬卡品牌列入了能為該公司提高商品毛利潤的幾個品牌之一。不過該數據并不能反映伊萬卡品牌在零售層面的銷量水平。

美國“第一女兒”這個光環對伊萬卡可以說是一把雙刃劍。首先，正是由于特朗普的參選直至最終問鼎總統寶座，才令伊萬卡這樣一個小眾品牌為美國公眾所熟悉。與此同時，伊萬卡之所以成為一個家喻戶曉的人物，也是因為她在父親的競選活動中扮演了舉足輕重的角色。由于此次大選選民的立場兩極化嚴重，伊萬卡招致了大量非議。很多人批評伊萬卡將大選當成了給品牌打廣告的機會。在去年的共和黨全國大會上，伊萬卡的官方推特發布了一張她登臺演講的照片，配圖文字里有在哪能買到“伊萬卡演講同款”衣服的信息。

在近來抵制伊萬卡的聲浪中，最猛的當屬一個叫做“抓緊你的錢包”的草根抵制運動，它還列出了幾家銷售伊萬卡品牌服飾的商場名單，建議消費者予以抵制。

大約兩個月前，高端商超品牌諾德斯特龍（Norstrom）曾表示，由于伊萬卡品牌銷量疲軟，諾德斯德龍將下架該品牌。然而現在看來，伊萬卡品牌的銷量趨勢明顯與諾德斯特龍的描述相反。除諾德斯特龍以外，品牌折扣店T.J.Maxx也終止了繼續經營伊萬卡品牌的合約，而內曼馬庫斯（Neiman Marcus）等零售商更是完全停售該品牌。

目前看來，伊萬卡品牌今年的銷量如何還是個未知數。今年2月，盡管接連受到諾德斯特龍等零售商超的抵制，伊萬卡品牌的銷量卻逆勢迎來了一個小高潮。不過現在，銷售伊萬卡品牌的零售店畢竟是變少了，而隨著伊萬卡接受了一個零薪水的總統顧問職位，她也基本上不太可能繼續參與品牌的經營活動了。

盡管伊萬卡品牌的銷量增長相當搶眼，但它在G-III集團的業務中所占的比重依然是微不足道的。上一財年，G-III的公司總銷售額達到23.9億美金，其中伊萬卡品牌所占的比重僅有2%。（財富中文網）

譯者：樸成奎

Ivanka Trump's apparel saw wholesale revenue rise 61% to $47.3 million in the fiscal year ended Jan. 31, according to the recently released annual report of G-III Apparel Group, which makes clothes for the first daughter and current presidential advisor's company and other brands including Calvin Klein, Dockers, DKNY, Vince Camuto and Tommy Hilfiger. G-III also listed the Ivanka Trump merchandise among brands helping it increase its gross merchandise profit. The dollar figures do not reflect what her merchandise commanded at the retail level.

The election campaign, and subsequent win by her father, President Donald Trump, exponentially increased the niche brand's visibility to the broader public. At the same time, that prominence stemmed in part from her large role in her father's campaign, which polarized large swathes of the electorate and earned her a ton of criticism. The president was accused of misogyny and sexual assault as a candidate. Ivanka Trump herself earned some brickbats for being seen as using the campaign to promote her wares: at the Republican convention last summer, her company tweeted out a picture of her giving a speech and included information on where to could buy the outfit.

One of the most vocal advocates of a boycott of her merchandise had been the grassroots "Grab Your Wallet" campaign, which maintains a list of retailers it recommended shoppers boycott.

Shop Ivanka's look from her #RNC speech: https://t.co/ma42A92DYa #RNCinCLE pic.twitter.com/DwHvSOu8Ue

The Ivanka Trump merchandise's performance stands in contrast to statements from upscale department store Nordstrom (jwn), which two months ago dropped her merchandise, citing weak sales. Other retailers, including TJX Cos' (tax) T.J. Maxx, pulled back on carrying her merchandise and others like Neiman Marcus, dropped it altogether.

Still, it's unclear how well her collection will do this year. It got a bump in February when defenders rallied to her brand in solidarity after the Nordstrom move. But her products are sold in fewer stores now, and Trump herself won't be nearly as involved in the brand's management now that she has taken an unpaid job in the government advising her father.

However impressive the growth, the brand remains tiny within G-III's business: total company sales came to $2.39 billion last fiscal year, or barely 2% of revenue.